I haven't done much lately. Basically I've just concentrated on the amazing weather and relaxing. Still, today was the first day when I really felt like moving around in an oven and someone is turning the heat up day by day. I'm still not very tanned (so no need to be envious), even though I have been at the beach quite a lot. Yesterday we had our first proper beach day and we ended up in one of the most gorgeous beaches I've ever seen. The water was turquoise blue, warm and there vere huge waves. And even though a bodyboard was brought to the beach for me to be able to try it, I changed my mind after hearing about the crosses on the cliffs. Altogether yesterday was a really busy day as in the evening we headed to the centre of Stellenbosch with Cameron to check out the night life. I have to admit, the city that looks so quiet and calm during the day has indeed it's wilder side! We didn't stay out very late, but today I've mostly been in quite a vegetative state due to the heat and tiredness.
pühapäev, veebruar 28
Lühike update
I haven't done much lately. Basically I've just concentrated on the amazing weather and relaxing. Still, today was the first day when I really felt like moving around in an oven and someone is turning the heat up day by day. I'm still not very tanned (so no need to be envious), even though I have been at the beach quite a lot. Yesterday we had our first proper beach day and we ended up in one of the most gorgeous beaches I've ever seen. The water was turquoise blue, warm and there vere huge waves. And even though a bodyboard was brought to the beach for me to be able to try it, I changed my mind after hearing about the crosses on the cliffs. Altogether yesterday was a really busy day as in the evening we headed to the centre of Stellenbosch with Cameron to check out the night life. I have to admit, the city that looks so quiet and calm during the day has indeed it's wilder side! We didn't stay out very late, but today I've mostly been in quite a vegetative state due to the heat and tiredness.
pühapäev, veebruar 21
Lõuna-Aafrika vs Namiibia
1. Mulle oli alati jäänud mulje, et Namiibia on kui Lõuna-Aafrika vaene väikevend (ja mingis mõttes kindlasti ongi), kuid näiteks interneti levikus teeb väikevend suuremale kindlalt silmad ette. Võibolla on asi ka selles, et me peatusime Namiibias olles uhkemates kohtades, kuid internet oli igal pool enesestmõistetav. Lõuna-Aafrikas seevastu tuleb ette võtta tõsisem internetipaast, sest väga paljudes kohtades seda lihtsalt ei ole.
2. Järgmise punkti korjab Namiibia oma duššide ja veesurve eest. Ma olen ka varem L-A pesemisvõimaluste üle virisenud ning teen seda ilmselt veel sest Namiibiast tulnuna on kontrast õige suur. Ilmselt ei ole kummaski neist riikidest veega eriti priisata, kuid namiibialased on aru saanud, et uduvihma pakkumine tähendab seda, et enda puhtaks saamiseks tuleb ekstrakaua duši all veeta.
3. Me küll sõime Namiibias olles puuvilju, kuid Lõuna-Aafrika puuviljade, juurviljade ja igasuguse värske kraami vastu need ei saa (ja võibolla need Namiibia puuviljad olid ka L-A’st pärit). Kõik on siin nii värske ja tundub, et just otse põllult korjatud. Siiski tundub mulle, et maailma parimat guaavamahla saab ikkagi Namiibias. (Mõtlen juba praegu õudusega, mida ma Eestis jooma hakkan.)
4. Inimesed on väga sõbralikud mõlemas riigis, kuid erilise soojusega jäid mulle silma Namiibia mustad. Ilmselt loeb siin ka see, et neile makstakse selle eest, et nad klientide vastu kenad oleks (Eesti teenindajatel oleks neilt väga palju õppida), kuid nad olid absoluutselt kõiges tohutult vastutulelikud ja lihtsalt äärmiselt kenad.
5. Aafrikat kujutatakse Euroopas sageli küllalt ohtliku kohana, kus valgel pidevalt nahka üle kõrvade tõmmata üritatakse. Minul siiani ühtegi halba kogemust sellega pole – kindlasti ka seetõttu, et ma olen oma loomult juba üpris paranoiline. Samuti tuleks alati teada, millisesse piirkonda oma nina toppida ei tasu. Siiski jäi vähemalt kohalike jutust mulje, et Namiibia on veidi turvalisem, sest Lõuna-Aafrikas moodustavad suure osa elanikkonnast sisserännanud, kes endal igal võimalikul moel hinge sees üritavad hoida.
6. Kuna mõlemad riigid on niivõrd suured, olen ma neist näinud vaid väga väikest osa, kuid see osa riigist ja just eelkõige loodusest, mida ma näinud olen, paneb mind Lõuna-Aafrikat eelistama. Namiibia jättis mulle oma lõputute kõrbede ja tühjade linnadega esialgu äärmiselt kummalise mulje (ja olgem ausad, Windhoek on tõesti suhteliselt kole linn), kuid Erindi looduspark korvas esialgse väikese pettumuse kuhjaga. Lõuna-Aafrika metsade ja safari kohta ei oska ma küll midagi arvata, kuid Stellenboschi ümbrus ja riigi lõunakallas on imeilusad.
7. Ma olen tegelikult absoluutselt vale inimene alkoholist (eriti veinist ja õllest) rääkima, kuid kuulu järgi tasuks Namiibias eelistada õlut ja Lõuna-Aafrikas veini. Ja kui Namiibias veini siiski eelistada, siis kindlasti mitte kohalikku.
8. Eelmisel korral Kaplinna lennates (2009. aasta oktoober) olin ma üllatunud, kui väike on niivõrd suure linna lennujaam. Vahepealse 4 kuuga on olukord tundmatuseni muutunud ja uus lennujaam tundub vähemalt 3 korda suurem kui vana. Windhoek’i Hosea Kutako lennujaam seevastu on suhteliselt väike ja mõttetu – ilmselt mõjuks ka neile üks jalgpalli MM hästi. Ja kui võrrelda piirikontrolli kahes riigis, siis Lõuna-Aafrika piiril käib kõik tunduvalt lihtsamalt, kui Namiibias.
As I already have managed to settle down nicely in South Africa, it’s time for the first African comparison: South Africa versus Namibia
1. I always had the feeling that Namibia was like the younger (and poorer) brother of South Africa (and in many cases it seems to be quite accurate), but if you consider it in terms of availability of the wireless internet, the little brother takes the pride. Maybe I have the feeling also because we stayed at more luxurious places in Namibia, but I could get online everywhere. In the other hand South Africa usually means an Internet fasting for me, as most of the guesthouses just don’t offer it.
2. I would give another point to Namibia for its showers and water pressure. I have already complained about the showering conditions in South Africa (and probably will continue doing so) as straight after Namibia, the contrast is huge. I don’t think neither of these countries have too much water, but at least the Namibians have figured out that I will stay much longer under the shower to get myself clean if all I can get from the shower is mist.
3. We did eat fruits in Namibia, but they can never beat the fruits, veggies and all other fresh stuff from SA (and maybe all the fruits in Namibia were initially from South Africa). Everything’s so fresh here and it seems that food arrives to my plate straight from the farm. Still, the world’s best guava juice comes probably from Namibia (and I am already worrying how I could manage without it in Estonia).
4. People are very friendly in both countries, but the black people in Namibia were somehow exceptionally warm. Sure, partly it must be that they are paid to be nice with the tourists (Estonian client service people would have so much to learn from them!), but they were really complying in everything and simply really nice people.
5. If looked from the Europe, Africa usually seems a really dangerous place, where the white people are always scammed. I really haven’t had a bad experience, but it must be also because I am quite paranoid by nature and I know the places, which I shouldn’t visit. (But it’s like that in most countries and cities.) Nevertheless, when talking to the people, I got the idea that Namibia was a bit safer – mostly because there are so many immigrants (also illegal) in South Africa who are trying to survive in one way or another.
6. I have just seen a very small part of the countries, as both of them are really big. But from what I have seen, it seems to me that the nature in South Africa is a bit more gorgeous. My first impression of Namibia was really strange due to the endless deserts and empty cities (and let’s be honest, Windhoek IS kind of ugly), but Erindi Game Reserve made up for it big time. I don’t know much about the forests and safari in SA, but the Stellenbosch area and the southern part of the country are wonderful.
7. I can’t think of a person who would know less about alcohol (especially about wine and beer), but as I’ve heard, you should prefer beer in Namibia and wine in South Africa. And if you do prefer wine in Namibia, then definitely not the local one.
8. The last time I flew to Cape Town (October 2009) I was surprised how small was the airport of such a big city. During these 4 months the situation has changed dramatically and the new airport seems at least 3 times larger than the old one. The Hosea Kutako airport in Windhoek was quite small and boring – I guess they could also use a big international event. And if you compare the border formalities of the 2 countries, then everything is so much easier on the border of South Africa.
neljapäev, veebruar 18
Lugu sellest, kuidas venelased krokodille toitsid
Restorani rõdu kõrval on väike sopane tiigike, kus elab trobikond krokodille. Ühel päeval nägid venelased, kuidas köögitädi allesjäänud liha krokodillidele viskas. Otse loomulikult tekkis neis kohe suur soov ka ise omalt poolt midagi armsate loomakeste heaks teha ja kuna lõuna oli parasjagu alanud, haarasid nad buffeelauast paar kandikutäit liha ja loopisid selle kõik krokodillidele. Kui ülejäänud 70 külastajat restorani jõudsid, ootas neid ees salatibuffee ning kokad pidid uuesti tööle asuma, et kellelgi kõht tühjaks ei jääks. Seda Benny muidugi ei maininud, kas venelased pidid karistuseks ainult juurviljaga leppima.
Loomulikult on venelastega raske ka safaril. Benny räägib ise täiesti arusaadavat inglise keelt ja kui ta siis neilt küsib, et kas nad inglise keelt räägivad, tuleb vastuseks midagi stiilis „Aga kas sina vene keelt räägid?“ Seega piirdub ta tavaliselt sellega, et näitab näpuga ja karjub, et „Kudu! Tüügassiga!“ jne. Venelased ei pidavat aga rahul olema sellega, et nad kudu ainult näha saavad. „Me tahame looma katsuda ka!“ nuruvad nad nagu väikesed lapsed. Soovitasime siis Bennyile, et järgmisel korral, kui ta venelastega lõvi juurde satub ja need talle ütlevad, et tahaks pai teha, tuleb tal lahkelt naeratada ja saata terve seltskond grupipildi tegemiseks lõvi kõrvale.
Our guide Benny was a really nice round guy, but it seemed that he loved Russians almost as much as Estonians do. There had been many Russians in Erindi lately and where there are Russians, the legends are born. It seems that this nation just knows how to make themselves memorable.
Next to the balcony of the restaurant is a tiny and muddy pond which is habituated by a bunch of crocodiles. One day some Russians spotted a kitchen lady throwing some meat to the reptiles and suddenly they felt the need to do something good for the little animals. As the lunch had just started, they had the possibility to take some trays full of meat and throw it all to the crocodiles. When the rest of the 70 guests reached the restaurant, they found a nice healthy salad buffet and the cooks had to start preparing some more meat for the visitors. Unfortunately Benny didn’t tell us if the Russians had to stick to the veggies as a punishment.
Russians are a tough crowd also at the safari. Benny talks quite an understandable English and as he asks them if they speak any English, they answer something like „But do you speak Russian?“ In this case he usually just points out the animals, yelling „Kudu! Warthog!!“ etc. But the Russians are still not happy, as they would want to touch the animals as well. So we suggested Benny that the next time the Russians want to pet some lions, he should give them his widest smile and tell everyone to go and stand next to the lion for a group picture.
kolmapäev, veebruar 17
Erindi Game Reserve
Üks safariretk kestab keskeltläbi 3 tundi (kui giid juhuslikult ära ei eksi) ja on puhtalt õnneasi, keda sa sel teel kohtad.
After a couple of days in Swakopmund, we headed to the Erindi Game Reserve to spend some days in the wild nature. Old Traders Lodge was surely everything but ascetic and modest. It’s rather a place where client is the king and everything is included (also food and drinks).
The daily schedule is really tiring: 6.30 is the morning safari, followed by the breakfast. The lunch starts at 12.30, the cake- and tea break at 15.30 and the evening safari at 16.30. After returning from the safari you can start enjoying the dinner. If there is some time left from all that eating and safaris, you can just lay by the pool and let the servants bring you cocktails.
Safari lasts about 3 hours (if the guide doesn’t get lost) and it really depends on your own luck, to which animals you’ll run into on that trip. The most popular animals like lions sometimes also have collars around their necks to show the guides where they’re at. Because of these collars we managed to find 4 lions that were having a siesta in a bush on our first evening. We parked our car about 30m from them and tried to make as less noise as possible. At first it seemed a bit weird that the lions didn’t pay much attention to us. Just figure, unprotected prey is sitting so close to you and you don’t even move a muscle. Besides the lions we also saw a herd of giraffes, jackals, zebras, hippos, warthogs, ostriches, crocodiles and many different bovine animals. We also spotted Scrat (from the Ice Age) with his girlfriend.
When driving around in the nature you have to be really careful not to miss anyone. At one point I saw something 10m from me that looked like a baboon. „Baboon!“ I yelled to the guide to make him stop the car. Suddenly the „baboon“ turned himself towards us and roared. Instead of a more or less unthreatening animal we found ourselves facing a male lion enjoying his breakfast. Even though I was almost sure at the time that he’s not going to attack us, it was still kind of creepy. Especially as I was the closest pray to the big kitty. It’s really an amazing experience to see a lion at such a short distance, but I was so relieved when I got out of the forest in one piece.
esmaspäev, veebruar 15
Namibia is a weird country. A huge weird country with about only 2.8 million people. Of course, as most of the country consists of deserts, you don’t have much space for living. And even though Windhoek doesn’t seem to be a desert city, the couple of hours I spent there didn’t make me feel that it was too suitable for living. Besides the people, I found nothing Africa-like in the city. It looked like a pale copy of Germany with its blank houses and big signboards written in German. It is quite clear that without Germany (or any other European country) they wouldn’t have such an infrastructure as they do now: they wouldn’t have wireless in every hotel or highways in the desert, but maybe they would have managed to keep their own face more. Something that makes you feel clearly that Namibia is located in Africa, not in Europe. When you drive out of Windhoek, it becomes suddenly clear that it really is Africa. Hours of desert roads, black women in gorgeous colourful dresses and little children with bare feet and ripped shirts asking for money.
Namibia greeted us with desert heat. The sun was hot, the temperatures rose over 40C and the chocolates we brought from Estonia, melted in the trunk to a one big (bulk?). After four hours of desert roads, we reached our first destination called Swakopmund and the city really managed to surprise me. It was completely empty. No buses, no cars, not even any dogs. Nevertheless the city was quite big and as there weren’t any restaurants near our hotel that were open on Sunday evening, we decided to drive to the centre with the car. As I am not a big fan of wine, the logical step was to make me drive everyone. At first I didn’t mind much – I have been driving on the left side and in South Africa it seemed more or less possible. It didn’t seem even slightly possible in Namibia. I am not sure if the reason was that I had to drive a tank or that I just couldn’t get used to the fact where the blinker light was located, so that I managed to clean the windows at almost every crossing. As we got to the centre, I refused any other car driving experience which brought up a problem for the others: the initial genial plan was that I will drive everyone back to the hotel by turns. As the plan backfired, they had to find another sober person. After three wines a great plan was hatched: if 16 people fit into a Saporožets (a small car produced in USSR), then for sure we can fit 9 people in one Toyota. And we all did fit indeed. Luckily we didn’t have to explain our vision about how many people should fit into a car to a police as the streets were still empty as we were driving back to the hotel.
pühapäev, veebruar 14
Sellest, kuidas vahel võib väga õnneks minna (kui ainult sakslased mõistlikud on)
Kui me lõpuks Frankfurdis maandusime, oli meil aega 40 minutit. Transfeeri check-in laua otsimiseks ei jäänud enam võimalust, seega läksime välja riskile ja lootsime sakslaste mõistvale suhtumisele. Kuna me pidime muu seas ka terminali vahetama, oli jooksmist palju ja umbes 20 minutit enne lennuki plaanipärast väljumist olime me jõudnud esimese tõelise takistuseni. Boardingukaartide kontroll. Tormasin kõige ees, arvuti lahti, ja üritasin puki otsas istuvale mehele oma kõige paremas saksa keeles selgitada, et meie kaardid on virtuaalsel kujul. Ta ei heitnud neile pilkugi ning suunas meid oma noore kolleegi juurde, kellel olevat triipkoodilugeja. Tol türklasel oli see tõesti olemas, kuid arvutit nähes raputas ta pead. Ei saa. Siiski pidin ma talle oma saksa keelega veidi muljet avaldama (või oli tal lihtsalt hea tuju), igal juhul palus ta meilt e-pileteid ja pagasilipikuid näha tõestamaks, et me tõesti peame minema sinna, kuhu me väidame end minevat. Järgnes passikontroll, meeleheitlik jooksmine ja turvakontroll. Kui me lõpuks väravasse jõudsime, oli lennuki väljumiseni jäänud umbes 10 minutit. Aga meile ei tehtud enam mingeid takistusi – e-pilet ja pagasilipik olid ka seal täiesti usaldusväärsed tõendid. Ja tol hetkel tundus mulle, et ma pean tõesti oma 25 aastat püsinud arusaamu muutma hakkama – saksa ametnikud ei peagi alati olema paindumatud ja rangelt reegleid järgivaid. Hea õnne kohal võib kohata ka väga vastutulelikke ja lahkeid inimesi.
Namiibia lennujaam pakkus järgmise värvika elamuse. Kuna lennujaama saabub päevas umbes kümme lennukit, teevad ametnikud oma tööd täie tõsiduse ja ülima põhjalikkusega. Loomulikult valisime me saba, mida haldas Namiibia kõige põhjalikum piirikontrolliproua. Kuna aega meil oli, ei hakanud me kohe algul saba vahetama ning lõpuks, kui meie ees olid veel vaid mõned inimesed, oli see juba mõttetu. Kui järjekord lõpuks meieni jõudis, ei pidanud proua meid üldse kõnetamisvääriliseks. Küll aga jagas ta oma kommentaare kõrvalboksis istuva ametnikuga. Kõigepealt ei suutnud ta ära imestada, mis imelik viisa meil passis on. Ja tõesti, siinkohal tuleb mul nõustuda – Lõuna-Aafrika viisa näeb palju ilusam välja. Seejärel tekitas küsimusi meie päritolu. „Estonia?!?“ küsis ta kulmukergituse saatel oma naabrilt, kuid ka too ei tundunud geograafias eriti tugev olevat. Templi sain ma passi kahtlasest viisast ja veel kummalisemast päritolust hoolimata.
Flying always makes me cautious and airports are places where I hate to rush. I like it, when I have enough time to find my gate and I don’t need to worry when they decide to give me a strip-search at the security check. Therefore I was a bit anxious about our 50 minute break in Frankfurt for changing the planes. I got a bit more than a bit anxious as we got to the airport and learned that our flight will be delayed for half an hour. Luckily we found out that Air Namibia offers online check-in at their webpage, but as none of us was travelling with a printer, I hoped that boarding cards in pdf format are acceptable in high-tech Germany.
When we finally landed in Frankfurt, we had 40 minutes. We didn’t have any time to find the transfer check-in desk so we decided to risk it and hoped for understanding Germans.
We needed to do a lot of running as we also had to change the terminal and about 20 minutes before our plane was about to take off, we hit the first obstacle. Checking of the boarding cards. I arrived with my open computer and tried to explain to a guy in my best German that we have virtual boarding cards. He didn’t even take a look at them and told us to go to his colleague who had the barcode reader. That Turkish guy did have the machine, but as he saw my computer, he shook his head. No way. Still, I guess I must’ve impressed him with my great German (or he was just in a good mood), but he asked us to show him our e-tickets and baggage slips to prove that we have the right to pass him. After that we had to get through a passport and a security control, plus a lot of hectic running. When we finally reached the gate, we had about 10 minutes until the takeoff. It seemed almost impossible at that time, but we had made it! And at this point it really seemed to me that I have to change my firm beliefs of 25 years – the German officials don’t necessarily have to be strict and unable to look past the law. If you are lucky, you might run into some really kind and understanding people.
The airport in Windhoek offered us another very colourful experience. As the air traffic in Hosea Kutako is not tense and just about 10 planes land there every day, the officials do their job with great thoroughness. Surely we picked the queue that leaded us to the most thorough border control lady of Namibia. As we had enough time, we didn’t want to change the queue at first and when we had just a couple of people standing in front of us, it was already pointless. When we finally got to the lady, she didn’t pay us any attention, instead of it she had to share her comments with a fellow officer. At first she couldn’t figure out what kind of weird visa we had in our passports. (And here I really have to agree with her – the South African visa looks so much better.) After that she decided our country sounds strange. „Estonia?!“ she asked from her neighbour, but it seemed that he wasn’t much smarter in geography. Despite of the weird visa and nonexistent country, she still decided to let me to Namibia.